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A traditional Spanish Horse Festival
It's a warm, sunlit afternoon and you are enjoying a fine wine and a plate
of Spanish tapas at a small, outside table. Nearby, a circle of women in
brilliant flamenco dresses clap and cheer as the dancer in the center
stamps her feet and prances with the same flourish and pride of a
professional entertainer. A young man picks up his guitar, and your
waiter sets down his serving tray to dance with the woman sitting next
to you. But your eyes are glued forward as a non-stop flow of some of
the most beautiful and well-adorned horses in the world leisurely parade
by. You are enjoying one of Spain's top celebrated festivals: The Feria
de Caballo, or "Fair of the Horse", held annually in May in the
Andalusian town of Jerez de la Frontera.
Known worldwide as the home of sherry wine, this city of 180,000 is also
revered for it's 'bularia,' the gypsy-inspired flamenco. But horse
enthusiasts flock to this Andalusian town for one reason: to appreciate
and celebrate the Iberian horses that are a part of southern Spain's
culture.
During the week-long fair, wine flows and flamenco pageantry abounds,
but the passion of the Andalusian people for their horses is most
evident, making the equine the true star. There are choices to make, as
simultaneous shows and exhibitions compete for your interest. Around the
city, you may view cross-country and endurance events, vaulting,
carriage races, and classical dressage and Doma Vaquera competitions.
The exhibition hall on the fairgrounds is packed with stalls filled with
highly bred local horses. Take in one of the halter classes or discuss
purchase options with proud stallion owners. Rows of booths will beckon
you with the fine leather products as well as artwork, riding clothes,
and everything Andalusian.
For those looking for a more interactive experience, a handful of nearby
ranches provide lessons on "high-school" trained horses or trail rides
through the scenic meadows. Stud farms in Jerez and nearby Arcos de la
Frontera offer tours. One travel agency even offers a chance to saddle
up and be one of the well-dressed members of the Feria parade.
Gonazalez Hontoria park, constructed in 1902 to host the fair, is the
social hub where drinking, dancing, and dining take place in rows of "casetas",
temporary houses that line the parade area. The steady flow of hundreds
of colorful horse drawn carriages and immaculately groomed horses and
riders is a welcoming atmosphere for the Baroque horse enthusiast.
Spanish Barbs, Friesians, and Iberian crosses join the mix. The fact
that most of these well-behaved horses are stallions seems incredible,
and speaks as much to the Spanish stallion-rearing practices as it does
to the temperament of their stock.
Before dark, the horses are ridden home or trotted down the busy streets
to the overnight facilities at the state owned Stallion Depot. But the
park's massive and brilliantly colored overhead lights ensure that the
party continues all night. Men exchange their Doma Vaquero riding
clothes for well-tailored European suits, and women proudly stroll in
skin-tight flamenco dresses. The music pulses while young and old strut
their stuff- the gaiety and pageantry truly an Andalusian experience.
Those with strong stomachs can walk to the bullring for the nightly "Fabulosa
Corrida de Tores", where locals believe the most talented, courageous
and revered horses can be seen, matched against the equally celebrated
Spanish bulls. The late night hours also bring out world class flamenco
guitarists, singers and dancers. Diners all over the city sit mesmerized
until the early morning hours. No fairgoer should miss one of the
exhibitions by Jerez's own Royal Andalusian Riding School (Real Escuela
Andaluza del Atre Ecuestre) where unmatched equestrian art is performed
to magnificent national music. "Airs Above the Ground" brings standing
ovations, but equally as moving to most horsemen are the cavalry-style
"carrousel" formations where 16 mounted Andalusians passage and
pirouette their way through complicated drills, perfectly in unison. The
school performs twice-weekly exhibitions all year, and a tour of the
palace grounds that house the school offers an outstanding equine museum
and a chance to view the training sessions.
There is little time for sleep during Feria week. The horse parade
begins anew each day, offering the same leisurely pace, with ample time
for the riders and carriage drivers to stop for a glass of sherry or a
plate of prawns at one of the casetas. To join these proud Andalusian
people celebrating their equine culture is something all Iberian horse
lovers should not miss!
For more information about Feria de Caballo the author recommends
the Equestrian tour operator Hidden Trails
www.hiddentrails.com
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